Castrillo de los Polvazares — A Medieval Village and Its Upside-Down Maragato Stew
Wandering the cobbled lanes of Castrillo de los Polvazares feels like stepping into a medieval tale: centuries-old stone houses, sunlit arcades, and the gentle murmur of pilgrims arriving via the Camino de Santiago.
A Maragatería Medieval Treasure
Just 6 km from Astorga, this village—declared a Historic-Artistic Ensemble in 1980—has preserved its original layout: wide carriageways, heavy wooden doors, and granite walls that whisper of merchants and drovers who once thrived here.
The Maragato Stew Ritual
No visit is complete without the emblematic Cocido Maragato, served “upside-down”:
- First the meats—pork shoulder, bacon, ham, and chicken.
- Second the chickpeas and vegetables.
- Last the broth, hot and nourishing.
This order dates back to the Maragato muleteers, who devoured their meats first, then warmed up with the comforting soup. Today, restaurants like Entrepiedras honor the tradition with homemade custard and puchero coffee.
Arriero Architecture
The distinctive “muleteers’ houses” feature vibrant porticos, inner courtyards for livestock, and stone benches by the door—built for life on the move, yet full of charm.
Living Craft Traditions
Discover workshops carving wood, weaving esparto baskets, and forging ironware. Local shops offer handmade soaps, ceramics, and regional wines.
Pilgrim Hospitality
As a stop along the Camino de Santiago, Castrillo welcomes walkers with communal meals and shared stories around the hearth at dusk.
Let Castrillo de los Polvazares enchant you: a place where stone, cuisine, and living tradition intertwine into an unforgettable medieval experience.
How to get there
Decimal: 42.465000°, -6.128333°
DMS: 42°27'54" N, 6°7'42" O
Qué maravilla de pueblo...Este año voy de paso por León, a ver si puedo hacer una parada. Gracias por la info me lo apunto en la libreta de planes!!